Creative Techniques Final

Circular Cut Distortion

 Geometric Cut Distortion

 Hand Colored Gradient

Halftone Screen

 Hand Colored

Image Overlay 

 Hand Colored Selection Tool

Symmetrical Pattern

 Song

 Texture Screen

 Vertical Cut Distortion

Personally I prefer doing "straight photography." Learning the more abstract style was very eye opening. I loved learning about how to use photoshop. I never knew all the things it was capable of. Even though learning abstract was really fun, I prefer taking and editing "straight photographs." I like feeling more in touch with my photography and I feel like less editing the more pure and naturally beautiful the photograph is. Don't get me wrong. I think that abstract photography is very artistic and takes loads of practice and I have much respect for those who work with it. I prefer taking and construction more realistic looking photography.

Creative Techniques

The five photos taken relate to this song because this is a camp song. The items in the picture remind me of camp and I received all of them from camp throughout the ten summers I've spent there. The green feather is an award given to the best camper of the summer. Me as well as my mother and my sister have all received this award and it was one of the happiest days of my life. The indian head is a symbol and memento of the award. These lyrics come from one of my favorite camp songs called, No Man is an Island. This song makes me feel right at home. This song is explaining how no man is ever alone as long as you are there with them. Both the song and this items relate to my camp experience.

#D9005B / #00B945 / #E2FA00

Motion Final

Zooming ISO 100 F/22 SS 1/4 I used a tripod for this photo. You need a slower shutter speed to get this effect. Make sure you are zoomed either all the way in or all the way out. Once you press the button the shutter will open and then you either zoom in or out at your subject. 

Chrono ISO 800 F/5 SS 1/1,000 You will need a tripod for this photo because all of your photos have to be in the exact same spot. Take all the photos you need trying to not have the people overlap. Once you have all the pictures go into photoshop and photoshop them together. Once they are put together then go back and edit the final picture.

Blurred ISO 600 F/16 SS 1/50 You will need a slow shutter speed for this picture. Your background will have to be completely still so they are not blurry and once the subject is in motion take the picture and repeat this until you get the effect you are looking for. I used a tripod for this photo. If you do not, the camera shake can cause the photo to be blurry.

Writing with Light ISO 800 F/25 SS 15.0 You will need an extremely low shutter speed and a tripod to achieve this. Turn the lights off and use a flashlight or a camera flash light. Once you press the button and open the shutter, move the light around in the design you want and be sure to do a little trial and error to get practice where as this kind of photo can be a little tricky to master.

Frozen ISO 1600 F/5.6 SS 1/1,600 You will need a lot of sun light and a high shutter speed. The only way to get the shutter speed needed for this photo is to have a lot of light and a low ISO. You do not need a tripod to achieve this kind of photo. Once your subject is in motion snap pictures to get a frozen motion. I used continuous shooting which helped me a lot when trying to capture these movements.

Panning ISO 200 F/16 SS 1/50 You will need a medium shutter speed in order to capture this effect. When your subject is in motion, follow the subject with your camera as you snap the picture. Try to match their speed and movement to be able to keep the subject in focus. I also used continuous shooting with this effect because it gave me more results to choose from. Trial and error is key for this photo.

          I found lots of success with this project when I shot the photos outside in a lot of day light. It makes the pictures easier to see and easier to take because you will have a larger selection of shutter speeds to choose from. A failure I had was that my chrono photos weren't all in the exact same spot. This made photoshopping them together a little harder. If I were to do this project over again I would try to use a better tripod and be more careful when taking the actual photographs.

Motion Shooting Assignment

           This project was a tricky one to accomplish. There had to be enough light outside to be able to freeze the motion, and you also needed subjects to be moving. My brothers had soccer practice after school and I could not use them right away for this assignment. Once they got home, there was still enough light that I could work in. My camera was also a little funky. The pictures were coming up green instead of full of color. I had to figure out how to reset all the cameras functions and reset the white balance before I could accomplish this assignment. I found success with taking a lot of shots. I took at least 4 more shots per category than shown. This way I could pick out the best ones and use the best material.

Motion- In Class

Blurred Motion: In this photo, you want to keep a slow shutter speed to get the blurred effect and adjust your ISO and F-stop accordingly. You will have to make many adjustments to be able to achieve the shutter speed you want. You want to make sure your subject is standing still and is in focus, the moving subject will then be blurry. As you can see the tennis ball is in this photo is blurred while Carly, the main subject, is in focus and frozen. INFO: ss 1/40, f/5.6, ISO 800

 Frozen Motion: For this picture, you want to keep a very fast shutter speed. In order to get a higher shutter speed you will need a lower ISO, which means you will need a lot of natural light to be able to freeze the motion being performed. Even though you will have natural light, your ISO might have to be higher to be able to get a high shutter speed. Focus on your subject and snap the picture when you're ready! Repeat this until you get a picture with your entire subject focused and frozen. INFO: ss 1/320, f/4, ISO 800

 Panning: For this picture, your shutter speed will have to be somewhere in the middle. When you meter your camera, meter on the part of the background where you plan to take the picture. Do not meter on your subject if they are far away because then it will be either under or over exposed as your subject passes by. As they pass by, hold your camera steady and use the dots on the lens to follow your subject as they move. INFO: ss 1/60, f/5.6, ISO 400

 Zooming: For this picture, you will need a very low shutter speed in order to create this effect. Focus on one single part of your subject and zoom all the way in/ or out. Then once you take the shot and the shutter is open, turn your zoom opposite to how to started. (if you're zoomed in, zoom out; if you're zoomed out, zoom in) You can create this look by turning the zoom slower or faster depending on how much of your subject you want in the photo. INFO: ss 2.0, f/22, ISO 200

 Chrono Photography: For these sets of pictures, you will have to use a tripod and set up your camera to where you would like the photos to be taken. Then once your subject is completely out of the shot, take a picture. This will be a starting picture. For the rest of the shots, place your subject in varying places with varying poses to create dynamic. Take A LOT of shots! That way when you pick the photos you want to use, you will have a lot of options. You will have to use photoshop to be able to put them together into one picture. Make sure when you chose the photos you will put together, try to avoid having your subjects overlap. This will make photoshopping harder, although it can be done. INFO: ss 1/250, f/3.5, ISO 400

Writing with Light Group Experiment

ISO 100 F/5.6 SS 1 second. 

This photo came out great because the subject stood very still and the light was moving at the correct time the shutter was open. This was my favorite shot because the contrast is great and the subjects face is seen with limited shadows against the dark background.

Motion Blog Assignment 2

Blurred Motion: These are visually appealing because they can show motion without having everything in the photo completely focused and clear.

 Frozen motion: These are visually appealing because they show motion while all subjects are clear and focused and do not give a feeling of motion sickness.

 Panning: These are visually appealing because they show only one subject in focus while everything else is blurred. This helps give points of emphasis.

Zooming: These are visually appealing because they give a great sense of motion or flying towards or away from a subject.

Writing with Light: These are visually appealing because they show great contrast between the dark background and bright lights being written with.

Chrono: These are visually appealing because they show shot by shot the motion a subject is doing. They show the full extent of the motion, not just one frame of it.